Milan is where Hawkings started his career, too, having acted as Ford’s right hand man since 1998. Tom Ford, the label, was a New York Fashion Week tent pole-minus the occasional pre-Oscars decamp to Los Angeles-but Tom Ford, the man, ascended to fashion deity status in Milan during his run at Gucci.
With its provisional calendar freshly released, this September’s MFW promises half the premieres but just as much anticipation: Peter Hawkings will present his first collection for Tom Ford on Thursday, September 21 at 9 PM local time, and Gucci’s Sabato de Sarno will unveil his vision for the Kering juggernaut the following day at 3 PM. Last September, Milan Fashion Week boasted a quartet of debuts: There was Maximilian Davis at Ferragamo, Rhuigi VIllaseñor at Bally (who has since left the label), Marco de Vincenzo at Etro, and Filippo Grazioli at Missoni. A new designer means endless opportunities to speculate, hypothesize, and partake in innocent but fascinating industry gossip. This was a quieter, clearer Gucci, but Michele still believes in eccentricity-don’t mistake it for restraint.It’s no secret that fashion loves a debut. There were none of the Major League Baseball references he’s used of late, and logos for the most part were eliminated. Michele called the sneakers “game changers,” for the way they’ve liberated women from heels. A few of the models carried trainers from the laces, like handbags. Different identities to slip into and out of as easily as a woman changes her Gucci sneakers for mismatched gold and silver platforms. Pierrot collars, in contrast, seemed to speak of childhood whimsy and innocence, as did the nonsense words ice, lolly, and sucker that appeared throughout. Many of the pieces were unfinished, with basting stitches tracing seams or the outline of outsize lapels, and raw edges elsewhere.
Gucci runway full#
He emphasized the sober ’40s tailoring of his grandmother’s generation in jackets worn by men and women: shoulders sharp, waists nipped, and trouser legs full above ankles cinched with cord.
Gucci runway free#
The collection was as “full of little things” as always, many of them deeply personal-there’s comfort in the familiar, even for a guy as free associative as Michele. But he sees clothes in the same way they’re the means by which we become what we feel we are, an open possibility. Hearing enhancing? Or hearing obliterating? The masks were runway artifice, not for sale, Michele said postshow-not with those 2-inch spikes. More subtle, but just as thought-provoking: the metal ear coverings. At the press conference afterwards, Michele explained his fascination, saying, “A mask is hollow but also full.” It conceals and reveals it’s a defense and a welcome sign disorienting and its opposite. Then there were the masks: Jason Voorhees masks, fetish store masks with 2-inch-long spikes, a stupendous brass eagle with talons clutching the jawline. And the show he put on today was harsh and destabilizing in the extreme, not unlike the world outside the Gucci hub, complete with lions gnashing their teeth on the soundtrack and lights pulsating brightly enough to make your retinas scream. Not least of all, Michele is a showman nonpareil.
He reoriented fashion towards individuality, and he blasted gender norms wide open, giving us Jared Leto in a dress-over-pants in the process.
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